Kevin Willman's storefront restaurant in a quiet neighborhood draws off-duty restaurant folks from all over town, knocking back fanciful firsts like porchetta bao and sweet potato nachos with housemade bacon and blue cheese and entrees like a dreamy take on breakfast. Probably the closest St. Louis comes to nose-to-tail dining, with chicken hearts gleaming like black olives in a fine, feisty salad. The fried chicken Monday-only lunches are a hot item, too.